How To Protect Your Roses In Winter | Jung Seed Gardening Blog

Should I protect my roses in winter? We often hear this question, and the short answer is “It depends.” From shrub roses to hybrid teas and floribundas, roses have different levels of cold tolerance.

Roses also come in two categories: grafted or own root. Grafted plants consist of two parts: a rootstock and a scion. The rootstock is the lower portion of the plant, including the base of the stems and roots. At the same time, the scion is the upper portion that creates flowers.

When a grafted rose dies back, it often sends out new growth in spring from the rootstock. This new growth is different than the scion and will give you a different type of rose (Rootstocks improve hardiness and disease resistance, while the scion gives you beautiful blooms).

“Own root” roses may die back to the ground, but the new growth will be true to name.

Here’s a breakdown of each rose category and their needs for winter protection.

Shrub Rose Winter Care

Bright red roses with buds on a background of a green bush after rain. Beautiful red roses in the summer garden.

Shrub roses are some of the hardiest roses and can be unprotected in most areas. You may see dieback at the branch tips during harsh winters, but the damage is often minor.

If you want to provide extra protection, here’s a practical method:

After the leaves have fallen (Mid-late November), add a wire cylinder cage around the plant. The cage should be 3 to 4 feet tall and wide enough to cover the whole plant.
Fill the cage with leaves, straw, or pine needles and pack down the material. The leaves will settle during winter, so packing down the leaves helps you add more leaves to keep the cage full.
Remove the protection in early spring (After the coldest temperatures are done and before the warm weather arrives). March is best for removing protection in the Midwest.

Grafted Rose Winter Care

Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, and Floribunda roses are often grafted and need extra protection to prevent winter dieback, especially in Zones 3-5. Use one of these two methods to protect the plants. The bud union (Where the rootstock and scion are connected) is more sensitive to cold weather, so you’ll need to protect the lower part of the plant.

Mounded Soil Method

As late fall arrives (mid-November), remove the leaves on the plants. You can also remove debris around the plants for fewer disease problems next year.
Tie the canes together loosely to make working around the plants easier.
Add 10 to 12 inches of soil around the base of the plants. The soil protects the graft union and the lower part of the scion.
Place 1 to 2 feet of leaves, straw, or pine needles over the mounded soil. Once the material is packed down, add a small amount of soil to hold the leaves in place. You can also use wire fencing to keep the material secure.

Minnesota Tip Method

This unique method involves burying the plant to remove any exposure to the winter temperatures.

For this method, you’ll need moist soil, so make sure the plants are well-watered in the fall.
Wrap the branches in twine so they’re easy to handle.
Dig a trench next to the plants and make it deep and wide enough to fit the whole plant. You can do this in November after several hard freezes.
Loosen the soil around the plants.
Use a spade or fork to dig up one side of the plant’s base and gently lay the canes in the trench, then cover the roots and canes with soil. Avoid digging up the whole root system.
Add a thick layer (At least 12”) of leaves, straw, or pine needles over the trench and secure with soil.
In late March to early April, remove the extra leaf protection.
In early-mid April, the plants are uncovered and placed upright.
Once the plants are out of the ground for two weeks, you can prune them.

Climbing Rose Winter Care

Pink and red climbing roses in a series of square archways captured on a sunny summer day.

You’ll find a range of hardiness among climbing roses, but many of them can thrive without protection, depending on your climate. If you’re having problems with dieback or want to play it safe, this method can help.

Remove the canes from the climbing structure in late Fall (November).
Lay the canes on the ground and cover them with a thick layer of soil and mulch. To keep the canes in place, gently pin them to the ground.
Uncover the canes in early spring (March or early April) and reattach the vines to the climbing structure.

Additional Winter Rose Protection Ideas

Red mini roses bloom profusely in a white flowerpot

Rose Cones

While these are popular, use them with caution.

Make sure the cones are large enough to fit the whole plant (It’s best to avoid pruning the plants to make them fit, as fall pruning leads to problems).
The cones should have large holes in the sides of the top for ventilation. Without the airflow, these cones can warm to over 100°F on the inside during sunny days.

Some gardeners remove the tops of the cones and fill them with leaves or soil. This protects the plants and creates airflow.

Roses in Containers

If you grow roses on a patio or balcony, the plants can be overwintered but will need extra protection. In warmer zones, you may be able to overwinter hardier varieties above ground, but most of us will need more insulation to keep the plants from being damaged.

In early November, find a spot in the garden and dig a hole.
Place the container in the hole and fill in the soil around the container.
Add 8 to 10” of soil around the base of your plants. That soil should remain in place for winter.
As spring arrives (early mid-April), remove the extra soil and dig up the container from the ground. Remove any dead canes, plant the rose in the ground, or put it back on the patio for summer. If placed on the patio, you may have to repot into a slightly bigger container.

There are many hardy roses to choose from, and with extra protection you can have even more color in your gardens and patios!